Borneo
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Normally we don't do hotels here at Globe Spots but when the construction price tag is in the US$1 billion region, it qualifies. Every part of this hotel is build with the best materials and the foyer is 80 meters high. All this splendidness is the brainchild of the black sheep of the royal family of Brunei, Prince Jefri. A lot of things can be said of Jefri, but before he got sacked as finance minister he had wasted billions on personal expenses, including gold-plated toilet brushes, 2000 cars and a yacht named Tits, with two tenders called Nipple 1 and Nipple 2. If that isn't class, we don't what is.
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A tasteful and modest piece of architecture that shows what oil money can buy. Build in 1958 with the finest material from all over the world; marble from Italy, stained-glass and chandeliers from England, granite from China, carpets from Saudi Arabia and a golden dome. In the artificial lake stands a replica of a royal boat. It's clearly the city's proud landmark and is considered among the most beautiful mosques in the world.
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The Proboscis monkey is the largest monkey in the world and is a seriously threatened species that only live in Borneo. There are estimated 20.000 left and surprisingly Brunei is the home to half of them, where they live along the banks of Brunei River. The males are easy recognised with their potbellies, big blobby noses, and permanent erected penis (we kid you not). They are quite shy and keep to the shadow during the heat of the day, so the best time to observe them is at dusk along the river bank.
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Brunei River, which snakes trough the capital, is home for about 30.000 people who live on stilt in water villages. Neighbourhoods are connected with a maze of wooden walk boards balancing several meters above the water level. Longer distances are done by zigzagging water taxis that shuttles between the city and the villages, and every point in between. Some have called it The Venice of the East though that might be stretching it a bit too far, but it's probably the liveliest area you will experience in Brunei.
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Batang Ai National Park, Sarawak, Borneo |
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Sarawak's tourist profile could easily have been designed based on this tranquil and lush national park. Jungle cruise in canoes on bending rivers, spotting orangutan (or maybe just their nests) while trekking, swimming under cool waterfalls, and longhouse stay with the friendly Iban people are the attractions here. Bookings need to be made from Kuching and longer expeditions deep into the jungle are possible, which will only increase the chances to see orangutans, gibbons, hornbills, and other wildlife.
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Deep in the jungle close to the Indonesian border lays the friendly Kelabit Highlands. Located on a plateau 1000m above sea level surrounded by rugged terrain, it is only reachable by plane or a seven-day trek trough dense forest. The main settlement Bario is still famous for their longhouses that can house up till thirty families under the same roof. Some of the elders still carry the heavy brass or hornbill-ivory ear rings and have their arms and legs covered in tribal tattoos. Homestays and multi-day treks are what the few travellers come here for in this nature rich corner of Sarawak.
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One thing that makes Mt. Kinabalu stand out from other mountains is the fact that it is possible to take in its full scale. On a clear day you can splash around in the South Chinese Sea along Borneo's shore and see Mt. Kinabalu's grey dome rises dramatically above the green and lush jungle less than 50 km inland. Today no skills are required to trek it and the tracks are well marked. It can be done in a very long day, but two days are strongly recommended. This way you can get some rest in one of the huts below the bald granite, before heading for Low's peak, which is the highest point, in total darkness to watch the sunrise light up Borneo.
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Big holes, tunnels and cave systems with the biggest known cave chamber (Sarawak Chamber) exist here in Mulu National Park. Some of the caves are show caves with boardwalks and artificial lights on the stalagmites and stalactites, but real caving trips is also possible with one of the national park's experienced guides. Seeing the Sarawak Chamber (600m x 415m x 80m) is a very difficult and demanding expedition, so don't count on seeing it on your first trip underground. Overground the jungle and its wildlife can be explored from canopy walks spanning between the tree tops. Don't forget to see the bat exodus at dusk, where millions of bats set out from the caves on their hunt for food. They just keep coming out and draw thick waves in the evening sky. An incredible sight not to be missed.
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Not just some impressive caves with human record going some 40.000 years back and rock painting dating 1200 years back, but also a major site for bird nest harvesting. These swiftlet's nests are some of the most expensive food item on the globe and goes for about US$500 pr kg in Hong Kong where they are made into bird nest soup. At Niah the nests are still harvest in the old fashion way where the collector climbs 60 meters up the air on thin poles to reach the nests under the cave roof. No serious safety equipment is used and fatal accidents usually happen every year. The harvest season runs from January to March and then again from August to December.
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This is "the place" to see semi-wild orangutans in Sarawak. The centre is located 25 km outside Kuching and doesn't see that many visitors (compared to Sepilok in Sabah), not even in high tourist season (July - August). There are feeding twice a day at the platform a couple of hundreds meters in the jungle but there are no guaranties - the orangutans are semi wild. Sometimes they just hang around the park centre, especially mothers with their toddlers in tow, and then there are a pretty good chance to see them up close.
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