No one will claim that Costa Rica's capital is beautiful or even slightly enhancing. Drab concrete monsters will insult your aesthetic senses, while most of the colonial leftovers are worn down or neglected (or both) with a few splendid exceptions. The streets are bustling with people without being lively and the range of shops doesn't leave much reasons to have a browse. It's a place you go to do stuff and even that is probably best done elsewhere. It is therefore a refreshing blow to your face when you have seen too much of groomed tourist Costa Rica and need a kick of "real" Costa Rica.

More than just another great little mountain village, it is the highest in the country (1590 m above sea). The people are friendly and the air is cool. There is not much to see or do beside circling the plaza, which also seem to be what the locals do. A few kilometres outside town you can join the lovemakers at Laguna de Algeria. This crater lake with its emerald green water as been hyped as one of the prettiest place in the country, though it is probably a bit overselling. The mountain roads to Alegria are amazing, offer splendid views over the plane and worth the whole journey.

El Salvador has a fair share of charming villages. They even host an annually Puebla contest, voting for the best village, and La Palma is always doing well. Beside being inhabited by friendly people it is an art centre, which they are not shy to show. Pretty much every surface, being it a wall, pole or door is painted with "La Palma" motifs in fresh colors. Not sure if the residents think it is as pretty as the rest of us, but we like it... at least for a day.

Just a charming little trading town. Mercado, cowboys and a parque central. Nothing more, nothing less.

The Mexicans consider this city's old town very bonita. Rather than an industrial suburb to Mexico City which you could fear, it is surprising charming with colonial houses and colourful churches. Great eateries can be found along the streets leading to the shady zocalo (main square). Nothing will blow your mind here, it's just a fairly nice and neat little bit of classical Mexico.

Narrow cobblestoned streets and colourful colonial houses already make Guanajauto one of the most charming Mexican town, but its hill side location adds a little extra. Ridiculously steep streets (and we do mean steep) and a maze of dark tunnels that traverse the town underground makes driving feels like a roller coaster ride – and makes finding any specific place close to impossible. Local boys are making a buck by guiding lost travellers through the labyrinth of winding alleyways. It's the town's many silver mines, which some are still active, that build this wonderful and weird place including the rich architecture and dark tunnels (a third of the world's silver was apparently once mined here). Do not drive in the town unless you are looking for some real adventure.

The centre of this little colonial town is lovely and neat. The colorful traditional houses are cared for, the street signs are made of tiles, and the fine cathedral is freshly painted. But down the side streets the facades are decayed and it gets a little more gritty. Here the elders drag their rocking chair out in the evening to keep track of life. Right outside town the two volcanoes and Lago Nicaragua offers a range of nice day trips. This is the classic colonial town of Nicaragua.

Rivalling Granada as the “most” colonial town in the country, Leon leads regarding size and scruffiness. The huge worn cathedral (the biggest in Central America) build in 18th century is massive and the plaza in front is still a gathering place for the locals – not the tourists. Tourism is just too small and the town too big for that to happen. It is a big university city where students flock the faded streets at lunch time and where colonial houses still are homes for families, and not a fancy coffee shop. This is the real colonial town of Nicaragua.

At first sight the old quarter down at the waterfront can seem worn down and very dodgy. Demolished buildings, empty lots, barb wire and scruffy looking people, but goods thing are happening. Historical houses are getting restored, great eateries are around the corner, police patrol the streets and local people are still hanging out on their balconies play domino or singing along to some Latino tunes. It is place full of local characters and very different from the flashy skyline of modern Panama city which is towering just across the bay. But beware how far you venturing off, for some of the most scary neighbourhoods are just a couple of blocks away.