Tajikistan

The Bartang Valley is so narrow at points that it might better be called The Bartang Canyon. A river crashes through the valley floor and the mountains rise straight up out of its banks. The few stretches of flat land between river banks and mountains usually host small villages and are vibrant green with cultivation, contrasting to the barren browns and reds of the rock walls around them. A narrow dirt track runs through the valley but is sometimes washed out by flooding, leaving villages only accessible on foot. As with much of rural Tajikistan, no public transport comes here so your options are hitch hiking, private vehicle hire, walking or, if you speak some Russian and are willing to wait a couple of days in the town of Khorog, finding a space in a shared taxi. The people of Bartang are spectacularly hospitable and you may well be invited into their homes. Houses are still built in traditional Pamiri style. A village elder is consulted about which pillars and beams must go where and the completion of various parts of the house requires animal slaughter and feasting.

For some, the only real reason to stop in the Tajik capital of Dushanbe is merely transport logistics. Truth be known, a visit here is almost inevitable. But as opposed to skipping through as quickly as possible on the way to someplace "better", the city could do with a couple days visits. Arguably the best thing to do is head to any one of the numerous parks in town. People-watching is spectacular as locals congregate for an afternoon stroll. But with a number of museums, monuments and other such tourist favourites, the city is more than just a place to get an airplane ticket or stock up on visas.

Located in the remote far east of the already remote Pamir region of Tajikistan, the tiny village of Karakul would, under any other ordinary circumstances, probably go completely unnoticed by travellers. However, Karakul is anything but ordinary. It is the village's location on the shores of Lake Karakul that makes a stop here almost mandatory for anyone passing through the region. With the magnificent Pamir Mountains reflecting in the pristine lake waters, it is an image almost too good to be true. If you then throw in the fact that the only place to stay in town is in one of the tremendously charming local home-stays, a stop in Karakul is transformed from a "Might-as-well" visit to a "Must" visit.

There are few places left on Earth that are truly "off the beaten track". And there are even fewer classic journeys that haven't been overrun with tour groups. But the Pamir Highway is a place so far off the track, it has lost sight of the edge of the world. The highway, cutting through some of the most spectacular sceneries on the planet, is the only link between the Tajik capital of Dushanbe and the eastern region of the country. With no hotels (only home-stays) and little to no traffic, the Pamirs offer travelling enthusiasts a challenge. With a combination of amazing nature, intact culture, remote location and unique opportunities, the Pamirs are the perfect storm for adventure travellers.

One might think that travelling in a region with a severe shortage (aka zero) of hotels might pose a logistical threat. However, when travelling through the Pamir region of Tajikistan, this lack of accommodation is a blessing, not a curse. Throughout the area, wonderfully hospitable locals open their homes and kitchens to weary travellers (for a price). These home-stays offer an amazing opportunity to get as up close and personal as possible, allowing an insight into how local life happens. The often traditional homes are surprisingly comfortable and the hosts do all they can to ensure their guests leave happy.

There exists a kind of tightrope when travelling through Eastern Tajikistan. A narrow river valley acts as an international dividing line. On one side, the remote Pamir region of Tajikistan, on the other, the even more remote mountains of the Hindu Kush in Afghanistan. For many, the mere thought of being a stone throw away from Afghanistan might be reason enough to visit the Wakhan Valley. But once there, the sheer beauty of the place will overshadow any preconceptions. Snowcapped mountains, grazing land, ancient ruins and natural springs all line the valley. And likely being the only traveller for miles makes the experience all the more special.