Uzbekistan

When speaking of environmental disasters, things like Chernobyl or the Exxon Valdez might immediately spring to mind. But what is arguably the single greatest man-made environmental catastrophe lies on the border of Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan. The Aral Sea was once one of the four largest lakes in the world. However, an aggressive irrigation project during the Soviet era saw the lakes main tributaries block, leaving the Aral Sea with no lifeline. Over the years it began to shrink. Fishing villages once on the seas shores found themselves further and further from their former fishing grounds. Contaminant and salt seeped into the ground. The list goes on and on. Possibly the best place to try to understand the magnitude is in the Uzbek village of Moynaq. A ship graveyard now lies in the former harbour. There is something beyond surreal about the sight of huge fishing boats rotting away in the middle of a desert.

There is, perhaps, no better place to relive the fabled Silk Road than the old town of Bukhara. Although lacking in individual showpieces (like the Registan in Samarkand), Bukhara has maintained a authentic feel. It's interwinding streets and alleyways meander past ancient mosques and medressas. But it is the fact that the market is so alive that makes Bukhara special. While many of the items on sale are tourist oriented, the visitor can still see local merchants labouring away on hand-mae crafts with skills passed down through generations. While the main thoroughfares might get a little busy, it is easy to escape down a back street and have the place to yourself.

The third jewel in the crown of Uzbekistan's ancient Silk Road cities is the town of Khiva. And while some might think "you've seen one, you've seen them all", this is not the case of Khiva. Khiva has been completely restored. So much so, it almost has a Disney-eque museum feel to it. This level of restoration might not appeal to all, but it is a glimpse into the former glory of the city. The walled off old city is full of mosques, medressas, art shops, cafes and bazars. Unlike the other cities in the country, you need a general admission ticket for Khiva. It's logical, as this level of restoration most certainly comes at a price.

There are few places on Earth that are so absolutely spectacular, yet somehow seemingly unknown. The Registan in Samarkand, Uzbekistan is one of those places. A UNESCO world heritage site, the central square surrounded by magnificently ornate medressas (dating back as much as 500 years) is a true sight to behold. A pillar of Islamic learning throughout the centuries, Samarkand is a thing of legend in the Muslim world. Towering doors and vaulting ceilings lead the visitors eyes to heaven, while the masterfully tiled walls and floors help to keep your feet on the ground. Samarkand is a truly spiritual place.

With a name like The State Art Museum of the Republic of Karakalpakstan, named after I.V. Savitsky (more commonly known as the Nukus Museum) may not be the most public relations geared moniker. But what the museum lacks in naming finesse, it more than makes up for in all other ways. What makes the museum special is the 82,000+ pieces of Soviet era art. Some may think, "Soviet era art?". It's true. Although the powers that be at the time attempted to destroy the art community, it somehow found refuge in this tiny town in the middle of nowhere. The museum is wonderfully well designed and run. It is rare to have such a great opportunity to see collection of art that simply should not exist.