This beautiful, mountainous, forested area is home to Kamchatka’s indigenous Even people. The region has two main settlements: Esso, population 2,000, is a mixture of Evens and ethnic Russians while Anavgay’s 600 inhabitants are mostly Even. They live by reindeer and horse herding, fishing and hunting, including for bears. In summer they get out to their hunters’ lodges and reindeer herds by horse and in winter by snowmobile. There are a couple of guest houses and locals who rent out rooms in both villages. They can also organize sledge, snowmobile or horse trips, although if you do not speak Russian it is better arrange this in Esso. A trip here is also worth it for their thermal springs, folk dance troupes and, of course, the surrounding nature. One bus makes the grueling ten-hour trip here from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky every day. The dirt track ends at Esso, leaving all settlements further north isolated and inaccessible in summer. In winter, however, Anavgay is the starting point for a network of temporary winter roads that stretches right to the far north of the peninsula.