The story goes that the Shrine of Hazrat Ali, in the centre of Mazar-i-Sharif, houses the body of the Ali ibn Abi Talib (the son-in-law) of the Prophet Muhammed. This has made the place so incredibly holy that evil simply cannot exist (or something like that). How do we know this for sure? Well, it's simple. When a bird lands anywhere in the park surrounding the shrine, the bird will turn white within 40 days. What that amounts to is 1,000 of white birds and almost as many tourist on-lookers. Sure, tourist numbers may be down to some 'issues' Afghanistan is going through, but the birds remain.