Bangkok travel guide

In the old days, Bangkok was pretty much just the royal city on Ko Ratanakosin surrounded by villages, where some specialized in certain craftsmanship. Over time, Bangkok has expanded and has long ago swallowed these villages, but even though these now lie in the heart of Bangkok, they still have a distinct neighbourhood feeling to them. Probably one of the most famous villages is the Monk Bowl Village (Ban Baht) where they make alms collecting bowls for monks for their traditional morning walk. Monk Bowl Village is pretty much just a few winding alleyways, but the whole neighborhood is soi (alley) after soi with small workshops and ordinary life. The bowl makers are happy to show you their skills and are not hard sellers.

Somehow Bangkok's strip joints have turned into a tourist attraction for almost everyone, families being the only exception. Skip Patpong (the place for ping-pong-banana shows) and go to the dragon's den, Nana Plaza. It is the real thing without the sleazy touts and money demanding bouncers and some places actually feature choreographed shows. Some come just for drinking, others want to see what those ladyboys are about (yes they are here too), while others again almost feel obligated to experience Bangkok's nightlife once in their life, and then of course there are also those who consider it their second home. Whatever group you belong to, Nana Square will provide in its own calmly chaotic way.

Tucked away behind the Swissotel Nai Lert Park hotel stands this small but rather unusual Buddhist shrine. Along the small path and up against the trees on the shrine ground stand loads of penises in any size and color. There is even a penis with a penis. Nobody seems to know why this shrine has turned into a fertility shrine, but worshippers have brought these phallic-shaped gifts over the years. The penis shrine can be hard to find, so when you ask for direction at the hotel, try with the Thai name Chao Mae Tuptim or "Lingam Shrine" instead of something the Thais probably will find embarrassing.

Being 46 m long and 15 mtall not only makes the reclining Buddha at Wat Pho an impressive sight, but also the biggest Buddha in Thailand. Though only gold plated, and not solid gold, it is still pretty shinny with mother-of-pearl in the eyes and on the soles of his gigantic feet. The Wat Pho itself is the largest wat in Bangkok and is dating back to the late 18th century, though the Buddha was first added in the first part of the 19th century. The Wat Pho complex also contains over a thousand other Buddha images, an active monastery and a massage school for those that are a bit templed-out.

Bangkok has plenty of markets, there’s no surprise there. But have you heard of Talad Rot Fai (Railway Market)? This market runs every Saturday and Sunday night and is host to the best collection of nostalgia, memorabilia, antiques, mechanical obscurities and pretty much anything else that is old and cool. The market was the brainchild of two collectors that gained permission to use the abandoned train warehouse and tracks in Bangkok’s north to create a meeting point for like minded people to come and swap or haggle. Now it has escalated into the spot for the new wave retro rockabilly scene. The market can be found a short walk from the Kamphaeng Phet MRT station in the opposite direction to the Chatuchak market. Don’t expect to see too many foreigners, this is Thai people living out their normal lives at an amazing market.