If there is any country that justifies a clear distinction between delicacies and specialties, Iceland is it. Iceland has some incredible food – particularly fish (salmon, cod, Atlantic charr), seafood (it doesn’t get much better than langustines cooked in butter, garlic and parsley) and lamb. There are a few dishes that, while not exactly exotic, are not as common elsewhere: horse, for example. Reindeer is both healthy and very tasty. Then it gets a bit odder. How about a taste of puffin, seal or whale? Still, these are actually quite tasty, and for the most part they look and smell like normal food. And there is skyr, of course – a delicious yoghurt-like dairy product best eaten with fresh berries or in a skyrcake (similar to a cheesecake): you might struggle to find a single Icelandic dessert that does not contain skyr. Enter the true specialties – and be warned: these are not for the faint hearted, or those with an acute sense of smell. How about slátur (think Iceland’s answer to haggis), svið (singed sheep’s head, including the eyes, sawn in two), súrsaðir hrútspungar (pickled rams’ testicles in sour milk) or, for something really special, kæstur hákarl: Greenland shark, left to rot underground for six months. Better drink plenty of brennivín with that – with luck you won’t remember any of it tomorrow!