The fascinating Kalasha Valleys are inhabited by the ethnic Kalasha people. They are not Muslims, but have their own pagan belief (though many have converted to Islam recently). They have distinctly different facial features (as they are descendants of Alexander the Great's armies) and the women's traditional dress is particularly colorful. The beautiful valleys are narrow and shaped by the fast flowing Kalasha river. The hill sides are dotted with fields and houses built in stone and wood. There are three main villages, Bumburate (biggest one with too many guest houses), Rumbur (most traditional one), and Birir (the smallest one), all with guest houses. Even though the valleys has been visited by domestic tourists for ages, the people are still surprisingly friendly. However, it's best to explore the villages with a local guide. The journey to get here is also a bit of an adventure, since the 4x4 road is absolutely crap and single track, even though the traffic is two-way.