Cute Lisbon doesn't feel like a western European capital. The pace is slow and there is nothing flashy about the lovely historical downtown. Here, a castle and grand buildings rise among decrepit, though charming, working-class neighbourhoods, where grannies yelling to each other from their windows, and there is a tavern at every other corner. The different quarters all have a different vibe. Some are decayed with lots of graffiti, while others are up-coming areas for the young and creative. Since Lisbon is built on sloping hills, you can find amazing panoramic views over the city's red roofs and blue sea, by ascending winding narrow streets and steep staircases. So, even though downtown Lisbon is very compact and walkable, it's easy to get lost (and out of breath) in the 3-dimensional maze of alleyways. Luckily, you can always jump on a tram and get back to a main square. Take a break here, have a pastry or a glass of port wine, before venturing into another quarter for some more exploration.