San Juan is more a patchwork of different neighbourhoods than one big city. Tourists will probably spend most of their time in overly cute Old San Juan (Viejo San Juan) with its cobblestone lanes, pastel coloured colonial houses, and historical forts. However, Old San Juan is much more than the tourist blocks near the cruise ship terminal. In the back lanes you can find cool cocktails bars and wonderful local eateries which serve rich Creol food. The infamous slum La Perla, which lies squeezed in by the city walls of polished Old San Juan and the Atlantic Ocean, is a peek into Puerto Rico's dark side, but take care down there. The posh neighbourhood of Condado, with its long beach and Atlantic surf, is where the rich hang out. Further East right next to the airport is Isla Verde with equal nice surf beaches, this is the playground for the people. Calle Loiza is also worth a look, an upcoming area for San Juan's trendy community (think tattoo parlors, salad/cocktail bars, and designer T-shirts).