You’ve seen the photos and read the hype. But for once it is all true. Jökulsárlón really is a spectacular, must-see place. Growing in size every year as a result of the retreating Breiðamerkurjökull glacier, this glacial lagoon is full of pieces of ice ranging from pick-one-up-to-pose-for-a-photograph to bigger-than-a-two-story-house. Some of it is blue (if it has only recently been exposed to air), some of it transparent and some black with ash, sand and gravel. More is added all the time, and if you are close enough you may hear the loud cracks of a piece of the glacier breaking off and falling into the water. If the tide is right, walk across the road to the black sand beach and watch little icebergs wash up onto the shore, creating beautiful patterns of blue, white and black. While climbing up on one of the nearby hills provides great views of Jökulsárlón, you really need to get into a boat to appreciate the scale of it, and weaving between pieces of glacier certainly isn’t something most people get to experience very often. The downside? During summer, Jökulsárlón is starting to feel a bit like Disneyland; scores of buses and hundreds upon hundreds of visitors do not exactly convey a sense of serenity. But never mind – it is still one of the coolest places you will ever visit, in Iceland or anywhere else.