Home to what could well be the largest concentration on scooters and motorbikes anywhere on the continent, any visitor to Ouagadougou (Wa-ga-dou-gou), or simply Ouaga, will have to learn to duck this buzzing menace or face the consequences. Burkina's capital and largest city is busy, but feels more like a large provincial town than a country capital. It's nonetheless Burkina's centre for everything. Shopping, nightlife and culture. The national museum, however, is an outright disappointment, and the main market is fairly ordinary. Instead, visitors should look to Burkina's nightlife given that Ouaga is one of the few predominately non-Muslim cities in the Sahel, as well as the city's skilled artisans. Ouaga's also considered Africa's cinematographic capital city, with a handful of good cinemas. Regardless of the notions above, most Western visitors will probably find Ouaga hot, dry and dusty, but once you've learned to cope, Ouaga is strangely pleasant, not least thanks to the fact that Burkinians are some of the kindest people on the planet.