Up and down, and up and down... Kigali is Rwanda in miniature. The city is spread over many hills, making it a bit difficult to find your way around. Luckily, fairly cheap moto-taxis (and, watch this, with helmets) are everywhere to take you to most places. Kigali doesn't fit the idea you could have of an African capital: with its large tree-lined and well-manicured boulevards, extremely clean and safe streets, its people driving slowly and cautiously and no real city centre to speak of, it looks more like a very civilised busy suburb. However, it is the kind of city that grows on you, and when you get to explore its diverse neighbourhoods, meet their friendly inhabitants, and take in the superb views of the surrounding hills, you can't help but start to love it.