Take the ancient ferry boat from Kudat and head for the island of Pulau Banggi. The majority of the island is uninhabited, with dirt tracks giving you access to the beauties of this island. Near the ferry landing there is a guesthouse with a tree house, and they will rent you a 4x4 truck to explore the island. You will find pristine forest, mangrove-lined rivers (with big crocodiles), and beautiful quiet beaches. Spend an afternoon roaming through the water villages along the coast in the main town and to find a fisherman to take you to the smaller islands surrounding Pulau Banggi. Bring your fins and mask as well for the reefs are stunning. But remember, no alcohol is sold on the island, so if you want to booze, be sure to pack it in!